Japan

Kesa

17th century, Edo period (1615–1868)
Silk and gilt-paper strip; twill and satin weaves with secondary binding warps and supplementary patterning wefts
99.2 × 165.1 cm (39.1 × 65 in)

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In the collection of Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago · as of July 2026

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FROM THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO’S CATALOG

The Chinese method for making gold "thread" out of paper coated with lacquer, finished with a layer of gold leaf, and cut into very fine strips was admired greatly by the Japanese but wasn't adopted in Japan until the late 16th century. Until then, and even after, Chinese textiles utilizing this kinran thread were imported into Japan. The term kinran is also applied to a specific type of textile made in Japan, usually at Nishijin, in Kyoto, that typically displays floral patterns in gold against silk in a dark color. This example features peony blossoms with a lotus pod in the center.

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