Patolu

18th/19th century

Silk and silver-metal-strip-wrapped silk, stripes of warp and weft resist dyed (double ikat), plain weave, stripes of weft resist dyed (weft ikat), plain weave , bands of plain weave and bands of open warps; plied and knotted main warp fringe

510.5 × 121.9 cm (201 × 48 in)

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In the collection of Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago · as of July 2026

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FROM THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO’S CATALOG

Patola are finely woven silk textiles made in Gujarat, India. They became highly valued imports in Indonesia, where merchants gave them to local rajas (rulers) to curry favor for trade. As a result, they came to be prized by their owners as heirlooms denoting high status. Artists create the designs using a double-ikat technique, dyeing the threads prior to weaving. Patola with the geometric basket design ( chhabadi bhat ), like the example on the right here, were used in funeral ceremonies in eastern Indonesia.

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