Southern Germany

Orphrey Cross (Needlework)

Late 15th century
Silk, satin weave underlaid with linen, plain weave; appliquéd with silk, satin weave; linen and silk, plain weave with supplementary pile warps forming cut solid velvet; and three-dimensional figures of silk, satin weave; linen, plain weave; and silk, plain weave; embroidered with silk, linen, gilt-metal-strip- and wire-wrapped silk in satin stitch; couching, padded couching, and French knots; painted; glass beads and semi-precious stones
109.2 × 61.2 cm (43 × 24.1 in)

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In the collection of Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago · as of July 2026

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FROM THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO’S CATALOG

This remarkable relief embroidery once decorated the back of a chasuble, the sleeveless overgarment worn by the priest celebrating Mass. The chasuble itself would have been made from a rich silk. The congregation saw this lifelike Crucifixion when the priest consecrated the bread and wine of the Eucharist, at that moment the priest faced the altar with his back to the congregation. The Virgin and Saint John the Evangelist are prepresented at the foot of the cross, Saint Peter with his key and Saint Paul with his sword fill its arms, while the top of the embroidery forms an image of the Trinity.

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