Japan

Summer Kimono (Hitoe)

About 1900–1916
Silk, plain weave self-patterned by rows of gauze crossings (yoko-ro); resist- dyed (shibori) and stenciled (kata yûzen-zome)
141.9 × 126.4 cm (55.9 × 49.8 in)

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In the collection of Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago · as of July 2026

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FROM THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO’S CATALOG

This hitoe (an unlined summer kimono) is patterned with leaves and water irises, a traditional Japanese motif. The use of bold colors, stylized natural forms, and curvilinear renderings alludes to the possible influence of Art Nouveau. The layered textures from both the gauze weave and the resulting undulation of the shibori technique contrasts with the flat stenciling technique applied to the surface, giving the appearance not of the actual flowers, but of their reflection in rippling water.

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