Tunic (Jibbeh)

Discussion

FROM THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO’S CATALOG

Sudanese soldiers wore these tailored tunics to mark their role in the Mahdist state’s fight for independence from British and Egyptian rule in the late 19th century. Appliqué elements, such as the sewn shapes seen here, have long held religious significance in Sudan when they appear as talismanic pockets. They also reference the woolen patches haphazardly applied to homemade garments that Sufi followers wore to declare their contempt for worldly goods. The orderly design of this tunic symbolizes a unified army. The clean lines and uniform arrangement of patches symbolize the Mahdi’s efforts to centralize and organize military loyalties, while still honoring soldiers’ long-held Sufi beliefs.

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