France

Skirt from a Court Gown

1805-15
Silk, satin weave; embroidered with gold metal-wrapped over a silk fibre core, gold frisé, silk, gold metal formed ornaments, "purl," spangles, gold metal strips; couching over paper core and silk padding, in pattern and backstitch; trimmed with bobbin lace made of gold metal strip wound around a silk fibre core
117.4 × 214.4 cm (46.2 × 84.4 in)

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In the collection of Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago · as of July 2026

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FROM THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO’S CATALOG

While early 19th century fashion tended to lighter fabrics and less decoration than that of the previous century, dress for formal occasions such as appearances at court continued to be subject to strict rules, as exemplified by this garment. The trio of lilies at the center of the skirt are a symbol of French royalty. The textures of the different metal threads applied to the shining satin fabric each reflect light slightly differently.

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