Uzbekistan, Samarkand or Bukhara

Wall Hanging Composed of Five Panels

1850/75
Silk, warp-faced plain weave; warp-dyed (ikat)
166 × 132.1 cm (65.4 × 52 in)

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In the collection of Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago · as of July 2026

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FROM THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO’S CATALOG

The ikat dyeing technique was brought to a high level of accomplishment in the 19th century in Central Asia, particularly in the area around the Fergana Valley, in modern-day Uzbekistan. The time-consuming process involves sequentially dyeing bundles of warps and wefts in multiple colors, each time with particular areas tightly wrapped to resist dye penetration, all before they are woven. Warps are then stretched on the loom and wefts are passed so as to create the intended pattern. While the patterns on these objects can be difficult to decipher, many appear to derive from floral motifs, talismanic forms, and Persian patterns. the chief design element here could have been based on a serrated leaf, a flower, or even a peacock.

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