Gertrude Rapp

Fragment

1838/1855
Silk, satin weave with supplementary patterning warps and pile warps forming cut voided velvet
24.4 × 47 cm (9.6 × 18.5 in)

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In the collection of Art Institute of Chicago, Chicago · as of July 2026

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FROM THE ART INSTITUTE OF CHICAGO’S CATALOG

This work exemplifies American efforts toward domestic silk production in the early 19th century. At the time, some Americans expressed concern that the importation of luxury goods, such as silk, from Europe, did not properly showcase the nation’s greatness. Under the direction of Gertrude Rapp, members of the Harmony Society, a small pious sect of Lutheran immigrants, raised silkworms and wove silk textiles. Although members supposedly had no interest in fashion or luxury, this colorful silk velvet demonstrates their dedication to self-sufficiency.

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